With its 4,058 meters high, the imposing Mount San Valentín -the highest peak in Patagonia- is the one that protects the Northern Ice Fields from above. A true guardian of the ice. And it is that further down, between valleys and lakes, the Exploradores Glacier expands for 18 kilometers long and 3 wide, a tongue of eternal ice that surprises tourists who travel the 52 kilometers that separate this natural attraction with the town of Puerto Río Tranquilo on the Carretera Austral. The experience this time leads us to walk on its eternal ice. Over its moraine. We embark on an adventure expedition offered by the tailor-made tour operator, Aysen Journeys.
+CHECK OUT OUR "AMAZING ADVENTURES IN AYSEN" TOUR, WHERE WE DO A DAY TRIP TO THE EXPLORADORES GLACIER
Belonging to the Laguna San Rafael National Park (2 million 150 thousand hectares), we access Exploradores from Puerto Río Tranquilo through gravel road X-728, going through natural attractions such as Lake Tranquilo, La Nutria waterfall and Lake Bayo . This is how we reached a Conaf shelter, where we received the entry protocols and a safety talk. We are asked to wear first and second layers, thermal clothing, and sturdy shoes. The journey on foot begins along a 4.8-kilometer path in the middle of an evergreen forest, where we are surprised by the song of birds and the recognition of native flora such as cinnamon and mañíos. The smell of humidity and wood is strongly felt, especially during the section that we must travel without a demarcated path.
The reward for the effort made is obtained after the arduous walk, when we reach the viewpoint of the Exploradores Glacier. From there we can see in the distance the moraine, the Northern Ice Fields and Mount San Valentin in case a clear day accompanies us. We also observe a lagoon that the guides in the sector know as La Plaza, and that is nourished by meltwater. There are those who only go as far as this sector, enjoying the panoramic view that allows them to obtain exclusive photographs of this natural attraction. The most adventurous decide to continue.
The route from the viewpoint continues through the frontal moraine of the glacier and through a zone of rocky sediments before reaching the zone of clean ice. This phenomenon is due to the fact that, as it descends through the valleys, the ice begins to drag earth, stones and minerals. This causes parts of the Exploradores Glacier to look dirty. When we arrive at the exposed ice area, the guides tell us that we must equip ourselves and convey safety to us. We will use crampons, helmet and harness from now on. With 83 square kilometers, the Exploradores Glacier is in constant movement and the route changes due to its displacement, so it is essential to go with someone who knows the route. Even more so considering that from time to time we see pots, which are small holes that are formed by the erosion of the water itself and into which you can fall.
The peak of excitement and adrenaline is when they tell us that we are going to enter one of the ice caverns. Inside them, the ice is more compact due to the lack of oxygen, which is why it is necessary to bury the crampons more to be able to advance without falling. The experience feels like entering the bowels of the earth. As we advance we feel more the energy of the glacier, its intense blue color and the drops of water that fall on our heads. We can also drink it as it is completely pure.
Before leaving for the return, we learned how fragile this ecosystem is. Glaciers are retreating alarmingly due to global warming and their melting process has accelerated in recent years. Studies between October 2020 and February 2021 managed to determine that the ice sheet of the Exploradores Glacier fell 4 meters. Could it be that there are only a few years or decades left to enjoy this wonder of nature in Chilean Patagonia?